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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.